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Mycorrhizal Fungi For Hydroponics

 Mycorrhizal Fungi Benefits in Hydroponic Systems 

The mutual relationship between Mycorrhizal Fungi and plants is a true wonder of nature.  Mycorrhizal Fungi are thought to have been essential in bringing plants to land some 450 million years ago!  Across millennia, this relationship has evolved and formed the landscapes that surround us.  Mycorrhizal made the evolutionary leap from water to land.  It only makes sense, then, that Mycorrhizal Fungi for hydroponics can also enable this unique symbiosis.  Using the best mycorrhizal products, and quality inputs, a simple hydroponic setup can yield awesome results.

There is a lot of information out there on how Mycorrhizal Fungi benefits plants grown in soil.  If you want to read more about that, check out the Mycorrhizal knowledge here, here, and here. 

The bottom line is that adding Mycorrhizal to your grow can reduce the rate of pathogen attack, improve stress tolerance, and promote plant growth, yield, and quality.  This holds true if you are growing in soil or in Hydroponics.

What Does Mycorrhizal Fungi Do For Plants In Hydroponics?

  • Increases Nutrient Use Efficiency and Uptake
  • Provides Plant Stress Protection 
  • Improves Crop Quality and Yield
The majority of research on Mycorrhizal Fungi has focused on plants grown in soil.  Hydroponic growers can also greatly benefit from using Mycorrhizal in their grows.  Let’s break down the types of Hydroponic Systems you can use and why you should consider using Mycorrhizal in your next Hydroponics grow.

What are Hydroponics?

Hydroponics are most easily defined as a method of growing plants without soil, where the plants are maintained with a nutrient rich water solution.  There are many different ways that hydroponic stems can be setup:

Types of Hydroponic Growing Setups

  • Wicking Systems:

    The wick or passive system is an excellent model for cultivating indoor plants.  It is a self-feeding model that does not require a water pump. Water or nutrient solution in a reservoir is supplied through a wick or fibrous materials (typically nylon) that can absorb and transport water from the reservoir to the root area by capillary action. The wick system is rarely used commercially, but the system has been used in small-scale gardens, such as personal home or office gardens, to grow flowering plants because of its simplicity. Even though it effectively inhibits the diseases common to overwatering, the wick system is not suitable for large or long term plants, which need a larger amount of water than the wick can supply.

  • Deep Water Culture (DWC)

    Most modified hydroponic systems were originally derived from the water culture system. The DWC system is a simple model, composed of a reservoir, an air stone, a tubing system, an air pump, and a floating platform.  With improvement of aeration methods to keep dissolved oxygen, DWC was developed so that plants can be grown with roots constantly suspended in water. Unlike the wick system, it produces food actively.  A floating platform supports plants or pots in a reservoir, where the root parts are constantly immersed in the water or nutrient solution and oxygen is supplied by an air pump and air stone. For optimization of growing conditions, it is necessary to monitor the oxygen and nutrient concentrations, salinity, and pH.  Although all kinds of plants grow well in this system, large or long-term crops may not, and algae and molds can grow rapidly in the reservoir.

  • Nutrient Flow Technique (NFT)

    The nutrient film technique (NFT) system was generated in the 1960s to compensate for the weak points of the ebb and flow systems.  NFT systems can provide water and nutrient constantly and make oxygen-rich conditions by controlling flow and water depth.  Water, or a nutrient solution in a reservoir, circulates throughout the entire system.  It enters the growth tray via a water pump without a time control, and then constantly flows around the roots.  The solution is collected and reused, and the amount of water is controlled by the slope of the tray and the power of the water pump. However, the roots are susceptible to fungal infection because they are constantly immersed in water or nutrient solution.

  • Ebb & Flow (Flood & Drain)

    The ebb and flow system was one of the first commercial hydroponic systems.  It uses an automatic flood and drain watering technique, in which plants are flooded temporarily and periodically.  Application of various media around root area is the great strength in the system. The water or nutrient solution in the reservoir ascends to a growth tray via a water pump, accumulates to a certain level, and stays in the growth tray for a set amount of time, providing water and nutrients to the plants. After a predetermined time, the solution is drained back into the reservoir through a tubing system.  This circulation system requires continual observation to control the amount of water provided to the system.

    Although it is possible to grow many different kinds of plants and provide them with a large amount of water, root disease and growth of algae or molds may easily occur in this system; therefore, some modified ebb-flow systems include a filtration step or other method for sterilization of the water.

  • Aeroponic

    An aeroponic system enables even control over the root system delicately and does not require media.  Using a high pressure sprayer with a micro-inject nozzle, water or a nutrient solution is sprayed around the roots by a water pump and provides a highly oxygenated nutrient solution to plants. Supports maintain the pots or plants, the water or nutrient solution is in a mist form, and is supplied for a specified period using a special nozzle and an electronic timer.  Customizing the misting cycles to particular plants is important, because their roots are exposed to the air and can dry rapidly.  The mist can easily be affected by the outside temperature, which makes these systems difficult to operate under cold or frigid conditions.

    This system is rarely used commercially because the system is expensive for installation and maintenance as it needs frequent cleaning to prevent plant disease and clogging of spray heads.  Also, partial failure of the aeroponic systems may easily cause damage or kill plant.

  • Drip

The drip or drip irrigation system has been widely used in commercial systems for many years.  Water or a nutrient solution in the reservoir is delivered to each plant or pot using a pump with the amount of water for each plant adjusted by an electronic timer.  

The drip system is divided into two models, recovery and non-recovery, depending on the processing of the reused water or nutrient solution.  In the recovery system, the water or nutrient solution is collected and returned to the reservoir and then recirculated through the system.  This makes it more economical than the non-recovery model, but reusing the solutions may result in pH changes and growth of algae or mold in the reservoir or tubing system.  In the non-recovery drip system, the amount of water or nutrient solution needs to be frequently monitored in the reservoir to ensure that enough water or nutrient solution reaches the roots of the plants.  The system is also vulnerable to power outage causing stress or death to plants.

  • Window Farming

    Window farming is an emerging concept in urban agriculture for space-saving and enabling residents to grow vegetables and herbs all year-round in urban settings with an available window. The window farm system is generally a vertical hydroponic system constructed of simple household materials, including plastic bottles, a water reservoir, and a small scale water pump with tubing.  Water circulates through the system via an automatic drip configuration using a pump and an electronic timer.  The sun supplies natural light, although artificial light may be needed on cloudy days.

    The vertical windowfarm system requires much less space than traditional hydroponic systems and provides an alternative method for growing crops in urban environments.  This trend is expected to continue, as window farming needs low input, creates sustainable agriculture in urban areas, including food deserts, and is able to provide urban residents with fresh and healthy foods.

    Easy Compost Tea

Deep Water Culture (DWC) is a popular way that many growers get into hydroponics.  The systems are easy to set-up, scalable, and grow great plants when you get it right!  But can Mycorrhizae be used in DWC?  Absolutely!  As well as any other hydroponic setup… 
Now, let’s get to the roots of how a successful Hydroponic system should work.  And why you should use Mycorrhizal Fungi for Hydroponics.

Hydroponic Growing Best Practices

  • pH(5.5-6.7)
  • Oxygen/Aeration (fully aerobic) 6-8ppm
  • Clean Water:  Chlorine (dissipates)/Chloramine (more difficult to remove)
  • Temperature 65-75 deg. F)
  • Nutrient Concentration (up to 30% increased efficiency with mycorrhizal)
  • EC (Electrical Conductivity) 1.2-2.0
  • Resevoir/Water Changes Every Week

Common Growing Mediums for Hydroponics

  • Rockwool:  Shown to increase pathogen resistance in soilless systems
  • Coco Coir:  Substitute for peat, free of bacteria and most fungal spores, excellent water retention
  • Clay Pebbles:  Lightweight expanded clay aggregate (LECA) used frequently in hydroponics 
  • Gravel:  Inexpensive, easily cleaned, drains well, works best in continuous flow systems
  • Oasis Cubes:  Rigid, open-celled, sterile foam, easily irrigated

 

Why Should You Use Mycorrhizal Fungi in Hydroponics?

  • Faster Growth/Bigger Yields (constant access to nutrients)
  • No Weeds (no cultivating, watering, tilling, etc.)
  • Water Savings (re-cirulated water)
  • Can be Grown Indoors in a Small Area 
  • More Controlled Environment/Inputs for Better Quality and Production

Mycorrhizal Fungi plays a significant role in Hydroponics, just as it does for soil grown plants.

Common sense might argue that Mycorrhizal couldn’t work in a soilless growing system.  However, there is one significant factor that both soil grown and hydroponic systems share.  The rhizosphere, or root zone.  

When Mycorrhizal Fungi colonizes plants, they greatly increase the surface area of plant roots.  This colonization recruits bacteria, fungi, and many other microbes.  Think of it like an internet for plants.  The Mycorrhizal Network… 

Beneficial Bacteria, fungi, and microbes use this ecosystem for mutual benefit with the plant.  They get Carbon from the plant for energy, in exchange for chelating nutrients, protecting against pathogens, and improving stress tolerance.  

Just as in soil, this Mycorrhizal network forms around plant roots in hydroponic setups as well.  With some minor differences.  Because of the way hydroponics work, microbe concentrations decrease much faster than in soil.  For this reason, it is important to re-apply at every water change.  This is due to the fact that microbes will not reproduce as rapidly in hydroponics as compared to soil.  

Maintaining a healthy ecosystem in hydroponics is extremely important.  As fluctuations in nutrient load, aeration, temperature, etc. can invite pathogens and root rot (Fusarium, Pythium etc.).  The beauty of incorporating Mycorrhizal and beneficial microbes in hydroponics is that they help to regulate nutrient use efficiency, pathogen attack, and changes in environment.  Maintain an oxygen rich, heathy environment for your plants and enjoy increased plant health, production, and yields! 

An important note for using Mycorrhizal Fungi in Hydroponics:  Phosphorous greatly diminishes Mycorrhizal growth.  When plants go into their flower cycle, Phosphorous requirements increase greatly.  Therefore, Mycorrhizal application should stop approximately 2 weeks before flowering.  This allows your plants to transition into the flower cycle by focusing on acquiring the nutrients they need for maximum flower yields.

 

How long does it take for Mycorrhizae to Work?

Mycorrhizal Fungi can begin to colonize plant roots in as little as 1-2 days.  The most effective strains of Mycorrhizal begin colonization within one week.  The process of colonization continues, with noticeable results showing in as little as 30 days.  There are many factors that contribute to the time that a Mycorrhizal colony will show obvious plant benefits.  These include your growing setup, plant species (strain), environmental factors, and more.  

In Hydroponics, it is important to apply multiple doses of Mycorrhizal through the early stages of plant development.  This is partially due to the fact that in hydroponics there is frequent water movement and/or the suspension of roots in solution.  Therefore, its is ideal to inoculate at every water change to guarantee complete root colonization and Mycorrhizal benefit.

 

What is the Best Mycorrhizae for Hydroponics?

  • High Spore Counts (guaranteed analysis of propagules/spores)
  • Multiple/Diverse Species (effective strains maximize colonization success)
  • Value-added combinations of Beneficial Bacteria, Fungi, Amino Acids, Plant Extracts, etc. (A biodynamic root zone ecosystem)

A quality Mycorrhizal for Hydroponics requires a product that contains spore counts that will be high enough to actively colonize the largest volume of roots possible, in as short amount of time as possible, for best results.  Lower spore counts mean that colonization will be slower, and less complete.  Therefore the benefits that Mycorrhizal provide will occur more slowly.  

A high spore count, in combination with a diverse blend of species, is ideal for the fastest and most complete benefit from Mycorrhizal for your plants.  Higher spore counts mean that more roots will be inoculated.  And will expand the root zone faster.  A diverse mix of species will allow the best chance of colonization.  This is because every grow is different, plant requirements are different, and change over time.  Where one species may take a larger share of the rhizosphere than another.  Because of these changing plant needs, the specific species of Mycorrhizal can change throughout a plants life cycle.  This is due to many factors, including the stage of plant development (seedling/vegetative/flower), growing conditions, environmental factors, substrate (soil type) etc.

 

The symbiosis between plants and Mycorrhizal is complex.  Many studies have shown that combinations of multiple Mycorrhizal and Beneficial Bacterial species show greater benefit to plants.  Specifically, they create a better plant health and growth promoting environment.  

This is because a wide diversity of species have different lifestyles and functions that complement the needs of the plant through its life cycle.  Certain Mycorrhizal Strains dominate depending on the environment they are in.  The microbes and fungi that habitate the rhizosphere use the Mycorrhizal network to survive.  In return, they provide numerous benefits to plants colonized by Mycorrhizal:

  • Plant Growth Promotion
  • Protection Against Pathogens (performed in numerous ways)
  • Solubilization of Nutrients/Increased Nutrient Availability (Phosphorous, Nitrogen, etc.)
  • Organic Acid Production (assists in chelating nutrients)
  • Plant Hormone Production (Auxin & Cytokinin production for root/shoot production) 

Mycorrhizal Fungi For Hydroponics Grow Better Plants

It’s all about the root zone!

Sterile vs. Non-Sterile Growing Environments

Old school thought in hydroponics has been to keep as sterile an environment as possible.  In order to prevent contamination from pathogens, maintain nutrient uptake and optimal water quality (pH, EC, etc.).  The reality is it is almost impossible to maintain a completely sterile growing environment.  

Instead, a robust, diverse concentration of Mycorrhizae, Plant Growth Promoting Rhizobacteria, and Beneficials gives plants an environment to thrive, and produce monster yields!

The common practice of keeping hydroponic systems as sterile as possible has been perpetuated.  There is still a lot to learn about using Beneficial Fungi and Bacteria in Hydroponic systems.  Especially for crops like Cannabis.  Current research is showing that the addition of Mycorrhizal Fungi and Beneficial Bacteria into Hydro Systems can have many benefits in terms of crop quality, health, and yields.

These Biodynamic systems, just as in traditional systems, need to be highly regulated and well-managed.  With technology constantly evolving and automation entering into growing operations, there is a great opportunity to incorporate these ‘living soil’ practices into Hydroponics.  Just as in a living soil environment, where the science has shown there are many benefits for plant success, the rhizosphere of plants in Hydroponic grows can mimic nature.  And grow great plants.   

Boost Your Grow The Natural Way

 

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FAQ’S about Mycorrhizal and Plant Biostimulants

 

references:

Plant-Growth Promoting Rhizobacteria in Soilless Cannabis Cropping Systems:  Implications for Growth Promotion and Disease Suppression.  Linus Söderström.  Swedish University of Agricultural Sciences.  2020.

Beneficial Bacteria and Fungi in Hydroponic Systems.  Lee et. al.  Nov. 2015.  Scientia Horticulturae, vol. 195, pg. 206-215.

Utility of AMF for Improved Production & Disease Management in Organic & Hydroponic Greenhouse Crops.  Mishra et. al.  2018 Journal of Horticulture – 5:3.

Optimization of Hydroponic Technology for Production of Mycorrhiza Bio-fertilizer.  Nurbaity et. al. 2019 IOP Conf. Ser.: Earth Environ. Sci. 347 012017

Taxonomic basis for variation in the colonization strategy of arbuscular mycorrhizal fungi.  Hart, Reader.  Feb. 2002. New Phytologist.

 

 

  • Beneficial Bacteria
  • Biostimulants
  • How to
  • Mycorrhizae
greeneden biostimulants

How to Apply Mycorrhizal Fungi: A Beginners Guide

How to Use Mycorrhizae and Plant Biostimulants 

Granular or Soluble?

When using Mycorrhizal Fungi or other Plant Biostimulants, such as our GreenEden biologic amendments, proper application to the plant, soil, turf, etc. will guarantee maximized results.

When you apply Mycorrhizal Fungi, the aim is to make direct root contact.

 This holds true for granular or water soluble products; As the Mycorrhizae will form a natural symbiosis with the root mass.  This greatly expands your plants reach, and allows increased access to the water and nutrients it needs to thrive.  

There are advantages to using a granular or soluble inoculant depending on your situation and conditions.  It is best to keep it simple, and not overthink it. Unlike common fertilizers and synthetic chemicals, Mycorrhizal Fungi cannot damage your plants due to using too much or too often; Follow the product instructions for the best results.

Read on to learn how you can find the best option to boost your grow with Mycorrhizae and Plant Biostimulants

How to Apply Granular Mycorrhizae

Seeds

Seed banding is a technique where you apply Mycorrhizae into the planting hole or furrow prior to direct seeding.  Always keeping in mind proper planting depth, watering in, and seed germination care.  It is typically best to follow the directions on your seed packet.  Another way to inoculate seeds is to mix the Mycorrhizae within the seed packet itself.  This is also effective, however, the coverage may not be as complete.

Transplants/New Plantings

For new plantings, incorporating a granular product, such as EndoBoost Pro, can be accomplished in a number of ways.  The Mycorrhizae can be incorporated into your backfill or directly applied to the roots of the planting.  Direct root contact is essential for the best results, as it holds the best odds for colonization and success.  Simply sprinkle a small amount of Mycorrhizae onto the root ball prior to planting.  When using EndoBoost Pro, you will only need about 1/2 teaspoon for a one gallon transplant.

Strawberry Transplant

Soil Amendment

Incorporating Mycorrhizae into a soil blend or potting mix will also be effective, as you are bringing natural, beneficial fungi into your soil.  Most store bought, bagged soils are typically lacking these beneficials.  Mycorrhizae needs a root mass to colonize and survive;  And over time some of the dormant beneficials will begin to lose viability.  So it is important to be aware of product shelf life.  This generally begins after one year or more.

How often you apply Mycorrhizae is important in order to get the best plant establishment, and lessen transplant shock.  

Additional treatments of Mycorrhizae can be made every 10-14 days through final transplant;  And approximately 7 days prior to re-potting or transplanting.  This gives the Mycorrhizal Fungi time to colonize your plants root mass and ensure a successful grow.

Established Plants

Granular Mycorrhizae and Biostimulants are also beneficial to apply to established plants.  Cultivate and blend into soil and make sure to water in well.  Amend to the drip line cover well and/or mulch.  Mycorrhizae cannot survive when exposed to sunlight.

EndoBoost Pro Mycorrhizal Fungi

How to Apply Soluble Mycorrhizae

Seeds

Biopriming, or seed soaking is a technique where a solution of Mycorrhizal Fungi/Biostimulants are made for seeds to soak in.  The idea is that the Biostimulants adhere to the seeds and are established at planting.  Using a product like EndoBoost Hydro will inoculate your seeds with a diverse variety of beneficials.  Recommended soaking times vary, but typically 8-12 hours shows the best results.

Transplants/New Plantings

Mix a solution of Mycorrhizae with non-chlorinated water and add as a soil or root drench.  Taking care to water in well.  The key, once again, is to make direct root contact.  Follow application instructions for the proper concentration.  Similar to granular products, Mycorrhizae may be added every 10-14 days through plant establishment.  And ideally at least 7 days prior to transplanting.

Hydroponic

Mycorrhizae can be added directly to hydroponic systems.  Care needs to be taken on what filtration systems/mesh sizes are used in specific setups.  Many of these solutions, due to their ingredients, do not fully solubilize and need to be decanted, or mixed to an agitated (suspended) state.  For example, GreenEden’s EndoBoost Hydro can be added to systems that use a 250 micron filter or larger.  This allows the many powerful Biostimulants to be fully incorporated for the results you require.

Established Plantings

There are many ways that Mycorrhizae and Plant Biostimulants can be effective when added to established, newly planted, or distressed trees or plantings.

Soil Drench

A soil/root drench is effective on porous soils, when watered in well to ensure complete root contact.  This is especially effective for greenhouse or potted plants.

Injection

On compacted soils, or to ensure penetration to the roots mass, a soil injection can be used.  This can be as simple as using a stake to get down to the root zone, usually 6-8 inches deep is all you need.  Use a grid pattern out to the drip line for an even distribution.  Then pour the solution into the hole(s).  There are also commercial grade root injectors available;  These are used primarily by professional arborists or landscapers.

InoBoost Ultimate Compost Tea

Foliar

It is important to note that Mycorrhizae are not effective as a foliar spray.  Mycorrhizal Fungi colonizes plant roots.  On the other hand, Biostimulants such as Humic Acid, Sea Kelp, L-Amino Acids, and others have massive benefits when used as a foliar spray.

What To Know When Using Mycorrhizal Fungi

  • Direct root contact
  • Keep out of direct sunlight; In a cool, dark place
  • Use non-chlorinated water
  • Follow product instructions for awesome results

Mycorrhizae and Beneficial Bacteria Work Together for Your Plants Success

GreenEden Biostimulants take advantage of the natural relationship that occurs in healthy and productive soil ecosystems.  Beneficial Bacteria and Mycorrhizae form an essential component of living soils.  They work in combination to build soils and give plants the conditions they need to give you professional results; without synthetic chemicals or pesticides.

Simplify the Science

The takeaway when you are using Mycorrhizal Fungi in your grow is this:  Keep it simple, get to the roots, let nature do the work, and…

Boost your grow the natural way

 

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Simple Living Soil Recipe for Seed Starting

Easy Living Soils

Everyone that enjoys cooking or baking have their own go-to methods and hacks they rely on for success.  Growers are no different.  There are so many different ways to get to similar results.  We are going to focus on an easy and effective way to make a quality living soil seed starting mix on your own.  Just like baking a cake.  With only a handful of ingredients to get your plants off to a great start.

This mix is ideal for seed starting and an excellent base for creating a biodynamic growing system.  Incorporating the least amount of inputs and gaining the maximum benefit.  Using nature as your guide to grow great plants.

What is Living Soil?

A healthy living soil is a healthy ecosystem.  And a healthy soil ecosystem contains the elements that any other healthy ecosystem has.  DIVERSITY.  Living soils contain a multitude of beneficial bacteria, fungi, protozoa, nematodes, earthworms, and more.  These diverse organisms work synergistically to break down organic matter and nutrients that are made available to plants.  They also defend against soil pests and pathogens.  

Living Soils are made to be used biodynamically.  Re-amended and re-used over multiple growing cycles.  Using no-till methods assist in keeping the diversity of your living soil intact.  Living soils are complex systems where encouraging and maintaining a biological diversity of beneficial life is key.

This living soil mix is intended to get your plants established quickly, with reduced risk of plant loss or transplant shock.  Living soils let your plants gain nutrients and water more efficiently, using less fertilizer and water.  This simple, effective soil mix is something that any beginner or master grower can use for awesome results.

There are 4 key components to this living soil mix.  As we are just going for a seed germination mix, there are no additional nutrients added to start.  And of course you can add to and tweak it to your own preference.  We will list these individually, with options for whatever other input alternatives may be more readily available in your area.  

How to Create a Living Soil

Peat Moss/Coco Coir (1 Part or 1/2 part each – 40% of mix)

Peat and coco can be used individually or mixed together in equal parts.  They are the main ‘bulk’ of the soil, and have good water holding capacity.  It is important to water these in well prior to blending and planting.  Peat is ‘hydrophobic’, which means it is difficult to wet and sheds off water easily.  Where coco is ‘hydrophilic’, which means is can easily absorb water.  Blending these two inputs give you a quality base to start with.

 

Perlite/Pumice/Vermiculite (1 Part – 40% of mix)

We mix roughly equal parts of our ‘base’ peat/coco with one of or a combination of these.  Perlite, pumice etc. gives the soil good drainage and aeration.  Different regions have different ingredients available.  Vermiculite (shown below) is fairly common, and some areas may have something like rice hulls available.  The most important thing is to keep the ratio close to the peat mix or slightly less.  

Vermicast/Compost (15-20% of mix)

A quality compost is a key factor in this living soil mix.  Compost holds a great mix of plant available nutrients in a concentration that will not burn young plants when used in these smaller amounts.  There is also an abundance of microbial life in composts that hold other numerous benefits.  Just what we’re looking for in a living soil.  Studies have shown that vermicast (vermicompost) used in ratios no greater than 20% have many benefits in regards to seed germination and early plant development.  

EndoBoost Pro Granular Mycorrhizae (2% of mix – follow application instructions)

Living Soils are an ecosystem.  And we want the most healthy, productive, and effective ecosystem to grow great plants.  EndoBoost Pro helps create the conditions for that to happen.  Mycorrhizal Fungi to expand the root zone.  Beneficial Microbes for increased plant performance, soil health and protection.  With powerful Plant Biostimulants to feed your soil, and drive plant growth and yields.  Amendments for living soil that give you the best results with the least inputs and waste.

How to Mix Your Living Soil

Now that we have identified each individual part of the mix, they can be blended and watered in to complete the process.  The simple ratio of ingredients can be measured out to whatever quantity you need.  Nothing changes whether you are measuring by the gallon or yard.  Home gardeners looking to start their annual vegetable garden, for example, would be best served measuring by the gallon.  

For an example, we will mix 5 gallons of soil.  Use a tarp, mixing bucket, tray, or wheelbarrow.  Whatever you have on hand.  Add 2 gallon of peat moss for each 2 gallons of vermiculite, for example.  Water well and mix to the consistency of a damp sponge.  Estimate soil moisture by squeezing a handful of soil to see a firm consistency with no water actively dripping or flowing from your hand.  You would then add up to 20% of quality compost (no more than 1 gallon for this example).  Finally adding the EndoBoost Pro Mycorrhizal at the rate of to 2tbsp. per 5 gallons (1tsp. per gallon).

And there you have it!  5 gallons of a great living soil ready for your seeds.  

Seed Starting Basics

Now it is time to plant those seeds.  Ideally, you have your pre-moistened living soil blend ready to go.  Your solo cups, planting cells, or paper pots on hand.  And of course the seeds you want to plant.  The idea is to get the seeds into an environment where they can sprout and have room to grow.  Depending on the plant, you may need to transplant into a larger container before final transplant.  Either way, you want to minimize the disturbance to your seedling.  Therefore, use a proper sized container so you end up transplanting as few times as possible before the plant finds its home.  

You want to make sure that your living soil mix is secure and packed down into the container.  Firmly, but not so much that it ends up being a solid block.  Remember that we want our beneficial organisms and plants roots to be able to get the access to water and nutrients that they need.  An overly compacted soil will more than likely cause problems.  

Make sure to follow the directions on your seed packets and plant at the proper depth.  Certain plants are more fussy than others for germination.  The general rule of thumb is to plant at a depth 2-3 times the width of the seed.  Lightly cover the seeds and water in.  It is best to mist the plants as opposed to other harsher methods that may dislodge your seeds or damage seedlings.

Boost Your Grow The Natural Way

Keep soil moist, warm, and get the seedlings under supplemental light or a south-facing windowsill when they sprout.  Use this mix right through final transplant.  Keep your living soil vibrant and productive with waterings of a quality soluble Mycorrhizal Inoculant like EndoBoost Hydro, and follow up with InoBoost Easy Compost Tea in addition to your normal feeding program.  Look for increased plant performance, flowering, and yields.

 

EndoBoost Seed Mix

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Easy Compost Tea

Compost Tea For Plants – The Easy Way

Compost Tea Basics

Theres a lot of information out there on the benefits of using compost tea for plants.  But how does the process work?  Do you have a compost pile?  Do you get good compost?  What is in it?  Is it safe?  Are there alternatives?

All valid questions. And the answers you seek may not be as simple they seem.  If you ask 100 gardeners the secret to how they grow the best plants you are likely to get many different responses.  This is no different when it comes to opinions on compost tea.

Can you make your own compost and compost tea?  Absolutely!  We encourage everyone to take steps like composting to reduce waste and enrich your gardens and landscapes.  But perfecting an effective and safe compost tea takes some work, education, and time.

 Do you want to experiment and roll the dice to get the results you are counting on?  Or are you looking for an easier, consistent product without doing the legwork?   How you answer these questions will determine which way you want to go.  Either way you can get the results you are looking for and get them in the way you are looking to.  Naturally.

Let’s dig into what your options are when considering making your own compost tea.  And what alternatives are out there…

Easy Compost Tea

 


What is Compost Tea?

A combination of:
  • Beneficial Microbes 
  • Nutrients
  • Humic Acids (Humates)
  • Water (clean/non-chlorinated)
  • Food source (sugars, nutrients)

Compost Tea will be some combination of these inputs.  They result from steeping or brewing finished compost in water.  This is done in order to extract and/or multiply beneficial organisms from the compost.  Quality compost teas are generally aerated in some type of a brewer or bucket type setup.  Typically, a tea is aerated between 24-48 hours.  However, care must be taken to not brew too long as it will invite potential issues.

 The type and quality of beneficial organisms in a compost tea is dependent on many factors.  The two main factors being the quality of inputs that go into the compost, and the composting/brewing process itself.  In order to maximize the amount of beneficial organisms in a tea, some form of food is needed to maximize these numbers.  Some common food sources used for compost teas are unsulfured blackstrap molasses, sea kelp, or fish hydrolysate.

What’s in your Compost Tea?

The value of a good compost tea is that you are adding plant available nutrients, Humic acids, and living beneficials to your plants and soil.  These are all highly valuable and important for living soils.  The fact remains that it is difficult to know what will be in your final product.  The only true way to know what is in your compost tea is through analysis.  

A quality actively aerated compost tea will have a rich diversity of bacteria, fungi, and other soil dwelling creatures.  Through microscopic analysis these creatures can be observed and a general inventory can be taken.  If you know what you are looking for.  One of the disadvantages of compost tea is that there can be a lot of variance in what your final product really is.  It is impossible to know what is in a compost tea without proper evaluation.  It is recommended to use a minimum of 400x magnification if you want to be able to see bacteria and other organisms.  The work of people like Dr. Elaine Ingham has identified the true beauty and power of the Soil Food Web, and how it can transform how we grow food and plants.

worm castings

 

What is Compost Tea Good For?

  • Adds Beneficial Soil Microbes – Soil microorganisms are a key component of productive living soils.  These microbes serve many functions such as fixing Nitrogen, solubilizing Phosphorus and other Macro and Micronutrients.  Each beneficial microorganism serves specific functions that can be dependent on your growing conditions.  Our knowledge of how this works will become greater as scientific research continues.
  • Maximizes Nutrient Use Efficiency – Nutrient uptake and a healthy living soil go hand-in-hand.  The microorganisms in the soil are what process nutrients into plant available forms.  This is a big reason why practicing organic practices are so very important.  The soil ecosystem works with your plants to give them what they need.
  • Plant Pathogen Protection – Many microorganisms have been shown to suppress specific plant pathogens.  Much of this science is still not fully understood.  Obviously there is a benefit to having more beneficial microbes than pathogenic microbes.  Many of these beneficials form what are called ‘biofilms’ around plant roots.  This is one way of defending plants and the rhizosphere (root zone) from harmful pests.
  • Builds Living Soils – Humic Acids, Beneficial Bacteria and Fungi, and other soil dwelling life interact to help form a healthy soil.  The Humic Acids form soil aggregates, improve tilth, and feed the microbes.  The microbes break down organic matter, make nutrients available to plants, and build biomass.  Together this forms living soils that improve many functions of plant performance.
  • Improves Water Retention – Compost teas help build soil.  A major benefit of a healthy soil structure is water use and retention.  When water use efficiency improves, runoff and leaching of nutrients decreases.  Plants perform best when they have proper access to water and nutrients.

The 20th century gave us the rise of commercial food production on a massive scale.  The farming practices that they used generally took no regard to the ecosystem that our soils really are.  Pesticides, herbicides, and fungicides kill soil organisms and damages those ecosystems.

Now we know that in order to have more sustainable ways to grow food we need to change our ways.  That is why compost tea and biointensive practices are now becoming mainstream.  Building living soils that have the resiliency and abundance that nature provides.  More and more people are realizing the value of growing naturally.  No chemical fertilizers or synthetics.  Composting and using compost teas are examples of how we can grow plants more responsibly while maintaining production and nutrient density.

 

How to use Compost Tea

So you brewed your first batch of Aerated Compost Tea.  Or maybe you are going to use an alternative to the DIY approach.  Something like InoBoost Ultimate, for instance.  The Beauty of using Compost Tea is that there is not a lot to mess up.  These are not typical fertilizers.  There is no risk of burning or damaging your plants.  Whether you brew your own, purchase a pre-made tea, or use a Plant Biostimulant product, the application methods will be similar.

It is best to use a tank or hose sprayer, or watering can to apply a compost tea.  The ideal time to apply is in the morning.  This is because the plants stoma are open and can take in liquids more easily.  Stoma are pores located on plant leaves and stems that allow for gas exchange as well as to uptake water and nutrients.  Plant stoma open and close as environmental conditions change.  In the heat of midday, for example, you can expect the stoma to close in order to retain water.  You can also apply later in the day, but care must be taken to not invite fungal disease if the plants remain wet overnight.  

There are two main ways to use a compost tea.  

  1. Foliar – Spray directly onto plants leaves and stems.
  2. Root Drench – Soak the soil directly around the plants as far out as the drip line.  It is a best practice to water in after to ensure the tea makes it down to the root zone.

Again, the beauty in using compost teas and Plant Biostimulants is that it is quite hard to damage your plants from overuse.  One possible way that you could damage your plants is if you overwater.  Otherwise, the frequency that you apply is really up to you.  Generally, this depends on what works best for your plants, as well as cost.  

Do Compost Teas Work?

This may not be the best question to ask.  I think it comes down to preference.  There is little question that a properly made, properly aerated compost tea contains a multitude of beneficials.  The beneficial microbes, nutrients, and other substances create the conditions to grow better plants.  And build great soil. 

Some important things to consider are knowing what you are putting on your plants, and do you have the time, desire, and equipment to do it right.

Guarantee the Good Bugs – Not the Bad Ones
InoBoost Ultimate is the Easy, Instant Compost Tea Alternative.  Loaded with a blend of Beneficial Bacteria, Fungi, Sea Kelp and more.  We lower the learning curve, and empower you with a proven blend of elite Plant Biostimulants.  A specifically chosen cast of beneficials that boost plant and soil health and production.  

A product like InoBoost Easy Compost Tea removes the trial and error of brewing your own compost tea.  Simply mix and apply.  Know what you are putting on your plants and soil.  And know how you can make an easy compost tea without a pump or other equipment.

Like we stated at the beginning.  Brewing your own compost tea is great.  And many people have had success in doing it.  However, it is not for everyone.  From buying the equipment, finding or making a quality compost, and finally brewing your tea.  It may just be more than you are willing to take on.

There are no magic potions that will guarantee success.  Good growing habits, natural, organic inputs, and a focus on building a healthy soil food web should be the goals.  How you get there is really just a matter of practice and preference.

Plant Biostimulants are a game changer for growers.  These products give you the benefits of using a quality aerated compost tea, but take out the labor and guesswork.  Some microbe food for thought….

 

SHOP GREENEDEN

 

p.s.  As always if you found value in this post, please like, share, and subscribe to our email list.  Feel free to reach out at support@greeneden.co.  Thanks!

Mycorrhizal Roots

7 Reasons You Should Be Using Mycorrhizae In Your Grow

How Does Mycorrhizal Fungi Benefit Plants?

There are a lot of conflicting, and confusing claims when it comes to some plant growth amendments out there.  The Plant Biostimulant industry is still developing, and there are many awesome new advances stilll to be realized.  The amount of substances that are considered Plant Biostimulants each have unique potential benefits and functions.  This list will focus on perhaps the most important of all Biostimulants, Mycorrhizal Fungi.

We thought this was a good opportunity to expand a bit on the benefits of Mycorrhizal Fungi used in biointensive/regenerative living soil systems, and explain a bit of what they can do for your plants.

Here are 7 scientifically proven reasons to use Mycorrhizae to get results. We thought 7 reasons worked simply because we employ a selective blend of 7 Endomycorrhizal species in our products in order to maximize colonization success and boost your grow…

Use Mycorrhizae For Professional Grade Plant Performance, Health, and Yields

1.  Increases Rooting/Transplant Success

Enabling new transplants to get to the resources they need is obviously important for plant success.  Mycorrhizae have formed a symbiosis with plants that allows for your your plants to quickly expand their root zone, and get established quickly.  This allows for premium performance as well as a reduction in plant loss and disease.

2.  Nutrient/Water Use Efficiency

When your plants are colonized by mycorrhizae, the expanded root zone is able to get to the nutrients and water it needs faster and more efficiently.  This results in reduced fertilizer inputs, and a more sustainable living soil ecosystem.

3.  Promotes Plant Growth Promoting Rhizobacteria

Plant Growth Promoting Rhizobacteria (PGPR) are an essential part of living regenerative soils.  Working within the mycorrhizal network, PGPR serve a multitude of functions that benefit plant growth, health, and soil structure.

4.  Protects Against Pathogens

A healthy root zone colonized by mycorrhizal lets the soil food web to go to work.  Beneficial bacteria move within the rhizosphere and work along with other fungi, and soil dwelling creatures to create the conditions to combat root and plant pathogens, and suppress disease.

5.  Improves Soil Structure and Quality

The vast mycelial networks created by mycorrhizae, and the diverse ecosystem that results is built in part by glomalin.  Glomalin is a glue like protein that binds soil minerals and is a significant component of soil organic matter.  This vastly improves soil structure, and allows for nutrients and water to be maximized for efficiency and soil health.

6.  Increases Flowering, Production, and Yields

A biointensive, living soil gives your plants the conditions they need to thrive.  The mycorrhizal network is what gives plants the most efficient and powerful means to achieve professional grade performance.  Bringing the nutrients, water, and protection where and when they are needed.

7.  Protects Against Abiotic Stress (heat, drought, salinity, etc.)

The power of living soils and the benefits gained from mycorrhizal colonization are many.  A healthy rhizosphere (root zone) gives your plants what they need to thrive.  When your plants have better access to what they need, they can better deal with potential stresses that would harm otherwise unprotected plants.

The Natural Way to Plant and Soil Care

The ancient symbiosis between Mycorrhizae and plants is powerful.  These relationships have been developed in nature over millions of years.  Today, growers can take advantage of this evolution in order to achieve awesome results, without the use of chemicals or synthetics.  In whatever growing setup you choose.  Build a powerful, living soil, mimic nature and maximize your inputs by using mycorrhizal fungi.

Let Nature Take the Lead… Boost Your Grow the Natural Way.

 

Mycorrhizae Compatible Plant Species List

 What Are Mycorrhizae?


Myco, from the Greek word mýkēs, meaning “mushroom, fungus”.

Rhizae, from the Greek word rhíza, meaning “root”.  

Mycorrhizae, a root fungus, that grows in symbiosis with plants, where the fungi provide nutrients and water that the plant roots could not get on their own.  Also enabling the plant to defend against pathogenic fungi and predators.  In turn, the plant provides nutrients to the mycorrhiza through photosynthesis.  

This process is 400 million years in evolution, as shown in fossil records.  It has also been proposed that mycorrhizal fungi played a key role in bringing aquatic plants to land.  Thus enabling the diversity and abundance of vegetation we have today.  

The most prevalent form of Mycorrhiza, Endomycorrhizae (Arbuscular Mycorrhizae), colonizes approximately 85% of all plant species.  Along with Ectomycorrhizae, which colonizes up to 5% of plants, mainly select hardwoods and conifers; covers the majority of plants on earth.

The remainder of plants either have an association with other less prevalent mycorrhizae, or are non-mycorrhizal.

Why is this important?  Many common practices adversely affect the natural state of mycorrhizal colonization. Tillage, resulting in soil compaction, and fallow soil,  common nursery practices, over use of fertilizers, pesticides, and fungicides, topsoil removal, all negatively affect mycorrhizae formation.  This can result in transplant shock, poor growth, plant loss, and lower production and yields.

We at GreenEden advocate for the natural way of plant and soil care.  Low or no till, addition of organic, natural amendments, and striving for balance with nature.  The evolution of the mycorrhizal relationship with plants is paramount in the development of a healthy ecology.

The following is a list of plant types and their mycorrhizal association.  By no means a complete list, but a good baseline of knowledge for what  mycorrhizal fungi you will need.

 

Plant Types With Endomycorrhizal Association**

Arborvitae Celery Grass Mulberry Ryegrass
Acacia Cherry Gum Monkey Pod Sassafras
Agapanthus Chokeberry Hackberry Nasturtium Sagebrush
Ailanthus Chrysanthemum Hawthorn Okra Serviceberry
Alder Citrus (all) Hemp Olive Sequoia
Alfalfa Clover Hibiscus Onion Silverbell
Almond Coconut Holly Pacific Yew Sourwood
Apple Coffee Hophornbeam Palms (all) Soybean
Apricot Coral Tree Hops Palmetto Squash
Artichoke Corn Horsechestnut Pampas Grass Strawberry
Ash Cotton Impatiens Papaya Sudan Grass
Asparagus Cottonwood Jojoba Passion Fruit Sugar Cane
Avocado Crabapple Juniper Paulownia Sumac
Bamboo Cryptomeria Kiwi Paw Paw Sunflower
Basil Cucumber Lavender Pea Sweet Gum
Bayberry Currant Leek Peach Sweet Potato
Bean Cypress Lettuce Peanut Sycamore
Begonia Dogwood Lily Pear Tea
Black Locust Eggplant Locust Pecan Tobacco
Blackberry Elm Ligustrum Pepper Tomato
Box Elder Eucalyptus London Planetree Pistachio Tree-of-heaven
Buckeye Euonymus Macadamia Persimmon Tupelo
Bulbs Fern Magnolia Pittosporum Walnut
Burning Bush Fescue Mahogany Plum Wheat
Cacao Fig Mahonia Poinsettia Willow
Cactus Forsythia Mango Potato Yam
Cannabis Fountain Grass Maples (all) Poplar Yarrow
Carrot Fuchsia Marigold Raintree Yew
Casuarina Gardenia Melons (all) Raphiolepsis Yucca
Cassava Garlic Mesquite Raspberry All nut trees except Pecan, Chestnut, and Hazelnut
Catalpa Geranium Millet Redbud All fruit trees, grapevines, grasses, and many vegetables
Ceanothus Gingko Mimosa Rose All berries except blueberry, cranberry, and lingonberry
Cedar Grapes (all) Morning Glory Russian Olive **Partial List of Compatible Species

 

Plant Types With Ectomycorrhizal Association**

Alder Birch Hemlock Madrone Poplar
Aspen Chestnut Hickory Oak Spruce
Basswood Chinnquapin Larch Pecan Willow
Beech Fir Linden Pine **Partial list of compatible species

 

Both Endo and Ectomycorrhizal Association**

Alder Cottonwood Hazelnut Willow
Aspen Eucalyptus Poplar **Partial list of compatible species

 

Plants With Other/No Mycorrhizal Association**

Brassica Family Amaranth Family Dianthus Rushes
Ericaceae Family Carnation Protea Sedges
**Partial list of non-compatible species

Defend Against Damping Off With Beneficial Bacteria

What is Damping Off in Plants?

 

Damping Off Disease is one of the most common problems associated with plant seedling failure.  Damping off causes the rotting of young plant stems and roots.  It can occur both before and after seed germination.  It is caused by a combination of different environmental conditions, pathogenic fungi, and is most likely to occur in over wet, cool soil conditions.

There are many methods that have been used in order to prevent damping off from occurring.  With the many different pathogenic fungi and microbes that cause this condition, there is not one tried and true method to completely prevent it. 

Young seedlings that have been infected will have a stem that becomes extremely thin, like it has been pinched.  Within a matter of days, the new plants leaves will yellow, and the plant will fall over and die.  This is what happens if the plant germinates at all.  Many times seeds will already have, or will be infected by a pathogen from the soil.  This will cause the seed to not germinate at all.  The biggest issue with damping off is in its prevention.  This is because once the symptoms are realized, there is really no way for a plant to recover.  

 

How to Prevent Damping Off

So how do you control damping off disease?  That depends on your growing setup and other factors.  The following list shows the methods that can be used in part or in combination to ensure you have a successful grow:

  • Proper Soil Management – Start with a quality seed starting mix.  We recommend using a light blend of peat and/or coco coir, some form of aeration (perlite/pumice), compost (Vermicast), and select beneficial microbials.  This will ensure good plant nutrition, proper drainage and water holding capacity, and beneficial microbes to encourage a healthy soil.
  • Clean, Sterile Growing Containers and Tools -You want to use clean, sterilized containers where any possible pathogens have been destroyed.  Using clean tools and equipment not only suppresses disease and prevents contamination across different locations and plant varieties.
  • Keeping Soil Evenly Moist – Pathogenic Fungi prefer certain conditions to multiply and attack plants.  Having a soil that remains too wet or too dry will encourage the growth of pathogens.  There are specific plant pests that prefer these conditions, so maintaining a consistent moisture level is key.
  • Soil Temperature – Follow the best management practices for what you are growing.  Keeping the temperature at a preferred level for your plants will help with rapid germination and growth.
  • Proper Air Flow – Maintaining a constant movement of air in and around your seedlings directly inhibits the growth of pathogenic fungi.
  • Fungicides – The use of fungicides have also been used to suppress damping off disease.  The trade-off with this approach, however, is the possible loss of beneficial fungi and bacteria in the soil.  Thus being an overall detriment to complete soil health and vitality.

Biological Control of Root Pathogens

Therin lies the beauty of Beneficial Bacteria for plants.  These beneficial bacteria are also referred to as Plant Growth Promoting Rhizobacteria (PGPR).  The knowledge of just how powerful Beneficial Bacteria can be to soil and plant health is beginning to be realized.  Numerous scientific studies are showing that specific strains of bacteria and fungi are effective in combating not only damping off, but many other soil borne pathogens as well.

These scientific advances are beginning to show another way to not only protect soil, plants, and crops, but also increase production and yields along with it.  All in a natural way, without the need for chemicals or synthetics.

Specifically for damping off, the many pathogens involved makes it difficult to pinpoint a single one size fits all approach to treatment.  Some of the more common pathogenic fungi that cause damping off include Pythium, Fusarium, Rhizoctonia, and Sclerotium.  These fungi show different symptoms, and affect seeds and seedlings in different ways.

For example, Pythium is a considerable soil borne pathogen that can cause damping off both pre and post-emergence.  Scientific studies have shown that inoculation of seeds and seedlings with beneficial bacteria has a significant impact in the incidence of the disease<1>.  Beneficial fungi like Trichoderma, and bacteria such as Bacillus, and Pseudomonas have all been shown to be effective in the defense damping of caused by Pythium.  These beneficials out-compete and destroy the Pythium pathogen.

A major study conducted by BIOCOMES (www.biocomes.eu) and co-funded by the European Union looked at the biological control of Fusarium.  It found that the beneficial fungi, Trichoderma harzianum, was effective in resisting the Fusarium blight.  By using proper sowing practices, crop rotation, and land preparation, in conjunction with T. harzianum application, represented an effective means to better crop production and resistance to disease and blight.  Bacillus amyloliquefaciens, Bacillus pumilus, and various others have also been shown to be a control mechanism against Fusarium wilt<4>.

Separate studies have shown numerous other Bacillus, Trichoderma, Streptomyces, and Pseudomonas species to be effective biological control agents; in defense of pathogens such as Rhizoctonia and Sclerotium<2,3>.

But with all of these differing pathogens, and a variety of biological treatment methods, how to know which one to use?  The answer lies in the diversity of beneficial bacteria used.

How to Control Plant Pathogens with Living Soils

A USDA study on strains of Streptomyces, a beneficial bacteria, found that an integrated approach would be the most effective means to overall plant health<5>.

Using multiple beneficial bacteria strains, along with proper water and nutrient availability, and limited soil compaction are the best practices for successful control of soil pathogens<6>.  Just like any other healthy ecosystem, having a diverse array of species present, with minimal disturbance, breeds a robust and resilient living soil that can protect, and provide support for the vegetation present.

GreenEden’s Inoculant Products provide these factors, with a potent, diverse blend of Mycorrhizal Fungi, Beneficial Bacteria, and Plant Biostimulants.

These work in combination to ensure the success of seedlings and transplants for your grow.  Living soils grow better plants.  This is done by encouraging a healthy rhizosphere populated by beneficial biology that out-compete, overpopulate, and attack plant pathogens.  It is this diversity and strength of living soils that protect against a wide range of soil borne pathogens, with the added benefits of enzyme and growth hormone production, organic matter breakdown, nutrient and water use efficiency, and more.  Natural, organic inputs, with no chemicals or synthetics.

A small dusting contacting the roots is all that is needed to unlock the benefits of rapid root establishment, professional grade plant performance, and protection against soil borne pathogens.
Growing in living soils, and following a set of simple, and repeatable best practices will ensure that you can keep your plants healthy and get the results that you want.
Think of it like an insurance policy for your plants.

p.s.  If you like this post, please like and share on Instagram and Facebook.  Spread the word on how to Boost Your Grow the Natural Way. 

 

references:

<1>Gulhane, V.G., et. al., 2005.  Biological control of damping off of tomato caused by Pythium aphanidermatum (Eds.) Fitz.  Journal of Soils and Crops Vol. 15 No. 1 pp. 118-121 ref. 9

<2>Fayadh, M.A., Aledani, A.A., 2011.  Effect of some microelements and biological control agents in control of tomato seedling damping-off caused by Rhizoctonia soloni Kuhn.  Basra J.Agric.Sci., 24 (1)

<3>Rajendraprasad, M., et. al., 2017.  Biological control of tomato damping off caused by Sclerotium rolfsii.  Journal of Entomology and Zoology Studies; 5(5): 113-119

<4>Sotoyama, K., et. al.  2015.  Biological control of Fusarium wilt by Bacillus amyloliquefaciens IUMC7 isolated from mushroom compost.  Journal of General Plant Pathology; March 2016, Vol. 82, Issue 2, pp. 105-109

<5>Xiao, K., et. al.  2001.  Biological Control of Phytophthora Root Rots on Alfalfa and Soybean with Streptomyces. Biological Control 23, 285–295 (2002)

<6>Larkin, R. P., and Fravel, D. R. 1998. Efficacy of various fungal and bacterial biocontrol organisms for control of Fusarium wilt of tomato. Plant Dis. 82:1022-1028.